Wow, the PR17 hike in Madeira was one of the greatest surprises of our trip! This incredible trail to the peak of Pico da Cana has similar dramatic ridge walks and panoramic views to the famous PR1 hike, but with far fewer people. We barely saw anyone on our route, as we walked along luscious levadas, past crashing waterfalls, pitch-black cave tunnels, and breathtaking viewpoints. Here’s how to hike PR17 Madeira, what to bring, and what to expect for your journey.

Our experience at PR17 Madeira

We hiked the PR17 trail in Madeira, officially named Caminho do Pináculo e Folhadala. It’s a challenging hike that makes its way from Encumeada to Pico da Cana, an incredible panoramic viewpoint that overlooks the São Vicente Valley.

A person with a yellow backpack stands on the narrow PR17 Madeira trail beside a lush forest stream and small waterfall, surrounded by dense ferns and mist.

You’ll walk among incredibly dense forest, past plunging waterfalls, and teeter on epic ridge pathways — this was one of the most beautiful hikes we’ve done in Madeira so far!

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How to Hike PR17 Madeira (Caminho do Pináculo e Folhadal)

The Hiking Trail of PR17

We hiked the PR17 trail in Madeira (also known as Caminho do Pináculo e Folhada), a reasonably challenging hike over 13 kilometers. It has a top spot in our list of best hikes in Madeira.

A wooden trail sign marked PR 17 points along a lush, forested path in Madeira, with a backpacked hiker walking away in the background.

The trail starts at Restaurante Boca da Encumeada and ends at Pico da Cana. However, you can combine this section with other routes on the island to create a much longer multi-day trail. Because of this, you’ll see campsites for long-distance hikers along the way.

Note: The official PR17 trail usually connects Encumeada to Lombo de Mouro. At the time, the trail was only open between Encumeada and Pico da Cana (Bica da Cana), which is the hike we did.

A woman with a red backpack stands on a rocky viewpoint along the PR17 Madeira trail, looking at misty green mountains partially covered by clouds.

PR17 offers spectacular views from ridges and peaks; it was one of the most beautiful and uncrowded hikes we did on our Madeira itinerary! Here’s some key information:

Distance: 13 KM (Boca da Encumeada to Pico da Cana)
Time: 5-6 hours point-to-point, but we took a lot of photo stops. You could do it in 4 hours. There is also the possibility of a longer 22 KM circular route.
Elevation: 600 meters of incline and decline
Difficulty: Moderately challenging, and quite physically demanding because of the incline.
Features: Levada, laurel forest, tunnels, waterfalls, and ridges. Panoramic mountain viewpoint at the end.
Entrance: 3 euros (purchase here)
Busy? The most uncrowded hike we did! Barely anyone is hiking in comparison to the other hikes, like PR1.

Two people walk along the pr17 madeira, a narrow stone path beside a flowing water channel in a lush, green forest.

Section 1: Boca da Encumeada to the Ridge

We started the hike at 9 AM from a trailhead across the road from the Boca de Encumeada Restaurant (exact location here). Depending on the time you arrive to do the hike, check the restaurant’s opening time to see if you want to eat/drink something here.

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The first part of PR17 Madeira follows a lush, overgrown levada (irrigation channel). On Madeira, you’ll find about 3000 KM of levadas, some of which even date back to the 16th century. As you follow along the channel, you’ll be surrounded by dense greenery, laurel forest — this really was one of the most beautiful trails we’ve done in Madeira so far!

A woman with a red backpack walks through a tunnel surrounded by dense greenery along the PR17 Madeira trail, with a waterfall visible in the background.

Next, the trail will pass by overhanging rocks and several waterfalls, powerfully spraying water depending on the season. We did the PR17 Madeira hike in May, so the water was less than usual but still beautiful.

Two hikers stand on the PR17 hike in Madeira, at the base of a tall, cascading waterfall surrounded by lush green vegetation and rocky cliffs.

The part that was most unique for us in this first section was where you must pass through two long tunnels. You’ll definitely need a headlamp, and ideally waterproof shoes, especially if it’s recently rained.

Note: When we visited, the tunnels were flooded, and although you could step across on stones, it was still easy to get wet feet.

A person stands at the entrance of the dark pr17 madeira tunnel, surrounded by lush green plants and rocky walls.

A person with a red backpack walks through a narrow, dimly lit tunnel on the PR17 Madeira trail, surrounded by rough stone walls and shallow water underfoot.

Section 2: Ridge Trail

While the first part of the trail is relatively flat, eventually, you reach a steep incline. At the top, you’ll walk along a breathtaking path that straddles the ridge; it’s incredibly steep on both sides, which can be unnerving, but the views are out of this world! Note: There are rails on both sides of the ridge path to keep you safe.

A narrow dirt trail with railings leads up a green, fog-covered mountain ridge under overcast skies along the scenic PR17 Madeira route.

Walking along the ridge (at an elevation of 1,400 meters), you’ll have panoramic views over the valley to the left and the town of São Vicente far below on the right.

A coastal mountain valley along the PR17 Madeira route, with a small town called Sao Vicente nestled among green hills, overlooks the blue ocean under a partly cloudy sky.

From here, you can see the mammoth Folhadal Waterfall and 2–3 other waterfalls, including those you passed earlier, giving you a satisfying sense of how far you’ve come. And on a clear day, you can see two highest peaks of Madeira, Pico Ruivo and Pico de Arieiro, in the distance. This part reminded us of the famous PR1 trail, but without the crowds.

Read about the famous Pico de Areiro Hike on Madeira (PR1)

Two people stand on the PR17 Madeira trail, overlooking a lush green valley surrounded by mountains under a partly cloudy sky.

Section 3: Ascent to Pico da Cana (Bica da Cana)

After the ridge, you continue the ascent toward Pico da Cana. Once at Pico da Cana, there’s another amazing viewpoint over the valley. This offers another opportunity to see the two highest peaks of Madeira.

A woman with a red backpack walks along the moss-covered PR17 Madeira trail, winding between high rocky walls, as tree branches overhead frame sunlight filtering through.

The trail remains challenging in parts, with wooden steps that can be slippery when wet. It’s best to step in the soil gaps between the wood for a better grip. This, together with the tunnels that can be underwater, you really don’t want to attempt the PR17 hike without proper hiking shoes.

A person with a blue backpack walks up the narrow, wooden-log staircase of the PR17 Madeira trail, surrounded by dense green forest.

Tip: The final viewpoint at Pico da Cana is accessible by car, so this could be a great alternative sunrise spot to Pico do Arieiro PR1, which often gets crowded.

We recommend to rent a car in Madeira through Sunny Cars with free cancellation and insurance included. Book your rental car here.

Mountain landscape along the pr17 Madeira trail, with lush green vegetation, partially covered by clouds, and distant rocky peaks under a bright, partly cloudy sky.

How Long is the PR17 hike?

The PR17 hike in Madeira is 15 KM and took us around 5 to 6 hours to complete. However, we did stop a lot to take photos. Without stops, it could be possible in around 4 hours.

One of the things we loved the most about PR17 is how uncrowded it was, especially compared to hikes like PR1. Enjoy this to the fullest!

Tip: Be sure to check the official Madeira trail status website beforehand to confirm which sections of PR17 are open.

A woman with an orange backpack walks along the narrow, curved PR17 Madeira path beside a water channel in a lush, green forest.

How do I get transport to PR17?

You can arrange a taxi from the parking lot to your car at Boca da Encumeada from Pico da Cana. Currently, there are no tours online offering this trip.

If you can’t arrange transport, you can hike from the restaurants to the impressive ridge walk and turn around, which would be approximately a 4/5-hour walk. We recommend doing this, as the incline to the top of the ridge is the most interesting part of the walk anyway.

Note: PR17 (Caminho do Pináculo e Folhada) usually follows a trail from Encumeada to Lombo de Mouro. At the time, the trail is only open between Encumeada and Pico da Cana.

One Way or Round Trip?

While we followed a one-way/point-to-point route, it’s also possible to do a longer 22 km circular route. If you’re looking for a multi-day hike, you can also combine PR17 Madeira with other hikes in the area. Along the way, you’ll find campsites for hikers where you can sleep and prepare food.

Two people stand near a stone circle along the PR17 Madeira trail in a lush, forested area with old, moss-covered buildings and tall trees surrounding them.

Best Time to Hike PR17 Madeira

We walked PR17 in late May, and it was so perfect! We left at 9 AM, so we walked most of the path in the morning, when temperatures were slightly cooler. Even if the sun is hot, the forest provides decent shade, so the temperature stays manageable!

The path was quite slippery in May, so we wouldn’t recommend doing this hike in the winter, as there’s likely to be even more rainfall.

Best

Good

Mixed

Poor

🌦️

18°C

Jan

🌤

19°C

Feb

🌤

19°C

Mar

🌤

19°C

Apr

☀️

21°C

May

☀️

22°C

Jun

☀️

24°C

Jul

☀️

25°C

Aug

🌤

25°C

Sep

🌤

24°C

Oct

⛅

21°C

Nov

🌦️

20°C

Dec

°C °F

Tip: Be sure to check the official Madeira trail status website beforehand to confirm which sections of PR17 are open. This can change regularly throughout the year.

Close-up of green moss growing on a fallen tree branch along the PR17 Madeira trail, with blurred greenery creating a lush forest backdrop.

How to Get to PR17

The best way to get to the PR17 trailhead is by car. You can park just outside the restaurant and leave your car there while you hike. Parking is free!

We recommend to rent a car in Madeira through Sunny Cars with free cancellation and insurance included. Book your rental car here.

If you don’t have a car, you are best arranging a taxi or a transfer from your hotel. While public buses are generally good in Madeira, reaching the more remote hiking routes like this can be complicated. There is a bus from Funchal to Encumeada, but it only leaves and departs once a day (see the schedules here).

What to Bring on your hike

PR17 is an absolute must-do hike on your Madeira itinerary. We loved how peaceful and uncrowded it was. Here are some key things to bring to get the most out of your experience.

Good shoes (waterproof sneakers with a good profile or proper hiking boots)
Sunglasses
Environmentally-friendly sunscreen
Plenty of water (in a reusable bottle, the perfect way to travel plastic-free!)
Lots of snacks
Layers (temperatures change throughout the trail)
Waterproof jacket
A headlamp (for the tunnels)
Your camera
Optional: hiking poles (there is a good amount of incline on PR17)

Hotels near PR17, Madeira

We chose a hotel in Funchal for our trip to Madeira, and we did a day trip to PR17 (only 40 minutes by car). We stayed at Hotel Cajú and Viola Market Studios.

Our favorite hotels in Funchal 😴

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FLH Viola Market Studios

Funchal

Hotel Cajú

Funchal

Barceló Funchal Oldtown

Funchal

See available hotels in Funchal

Check available hotels

Check available hostels

However, if you’d like to be closer to the trailhead and immersed in this beautiful natural area of Madeira, the towns of São Vicente, Ponte Delgada, and Seixal are all lovely and under a 30-minute drive away.

Tip: You’ll also find the Encumeada Valley View Hotel at the beginning of the PR17 trail, which would be a great option if you’d like to stay the night before the hike to start at sunrise. We imagine the light at this time (or sunset) would be breathtaking! (Book your room here)