Fanal: A Complete Guide to Madeira’s Enchanting Forest

The Story of Fanal Forest, Madeira

Fanal Forest in Madeira, with its unique Laurel trees and fairytale-like atmosphere, is the ideal place to reconnect with nature. Hannah and I think it is one of the best things to do in Madeira, especially when fog creeps in and shrouds the famous mystically shaped trees (which happens often).

The Fanal Forest is part of the larger subtropical Laurissilva Forest, a UNESCO site of about 15,000 hectares (!), and home to many different plant and animal species. Many of these are unique to Madeira, including the iconic Laurel trees that give the area its distinctive character. 

Because of these trees, the forest experiences high humidity and consistent temperatures year-round. Add the high altitude to the equation, and you’ll often see the landscape covered in a thick, moving fog! 

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Important: New Visiting Rules Fanal Forest

Due to Madeira’s growing popularity, places like Fanal Forest are experiencing a huge increase in visitors. To protect the magic of the Laurissilva, a few new measures are being introduced. Here’s what to expect:

• The Forest allows a maximum of 3000 visitors per day. This limit is already active and being monitored. 
• Set visiting hours (coming soon), and plans are discussed for a potential entry fee. 
• Protected zones: Certain areas will be restricted to preserve sensitive ecosystems.
• A single walking trail with designated points of interest/photo spots is being put in. New fencing, paths, and boardwalks are being installed to prevent erosion, protect fragile areas, and keep everyone on safe, designated routes. Please stay on marked paths and respect the environment.
• There will be controlled parking zones and entry points to manage crowding.

This means Fanal is currently in a transition phase, with new rules and infrastructure being rolled out step by step. We recommend checking with the local tourism office for the latest updates and keeping a flexible itinerary on the day you plan to visit Fanal Forest.

Things to Do in Fanal Forest

When you arrive at the famed Fanal, Madeira, you’re welcomed by beautiful grassland dotted with trees. The scenery quickly becomes otherworldly the moment you enter the forest, (potentially) witnessing the fog roll in. 

In between, you’ll find a few peaceful water ponds, the Fanal Witch Tree, many free-roaming cows, beautiful local birds, and hiking trails that swerve past the ferns and twisted branches.

We think the best thing to do in Fanal Forest is to simply wander through the area, soak up the incredible atmosphere, snap some photos, and witness the sunrise from high up on the hill. This is the perfect spot to spend a couple of hours and then continue your Madeira itinerary with, for example, going for a swim at Porto Moniz.

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Levada dos Cedros (PR14)

This hike starts at the water outcrops of Lombo do Cedro, passes through the laurel trees, and ends at a stunning waterfall. The total route is 7.2 km (round trip), with views of some of the most incredible, lush scenery. The trailhead lies here, though you can also walk the route the other way around. 

Unlike the PR13 (below), this trail is less visited, offering long sections along the stunning hike all to yourself. It’s also a ‘levada’ route, meaning it worms its way along the narrow water channels dug into the mountain.

Vereda do Fanal (PR13)

The PR13 starts on the Paúl da Serra plateau and takes you straight through Fanal Forest for 11 km. This is a point-to-point route, meaning that you’ll have to walk the same way back, doubling your hike in kilometers. 

Though this is quite a feat, it’s perfect if you’re looking to spend the whole day in the area, walking through the magical laurel forest. Tip: You can always do just a portion of the hike and turn around earlier.

How to Get to Fanal Forest, Madeira

Where is Fanal Forest in Madeira?

Fanal Forest lies in the mountainous region of Paúl da Serra on the northwestern side of Madeira. From the capital city of Funchal, it’s about an hour’s drive to the mystical forest. The road quickly climbs, leading high into the interior mountains of the island.

By Car

The easiest way to get to Fanal Forest is by car. Type in ‘Fanal Parking’ on Google Maps and follow the road up into the greenery. As this route leads you through the mountains, the roads zigzag along the hills. When you’re entering the park road, make sure to drive slowly (about 50 km/h max!) because so many bunny rabbits cross the roads that appear suddenly. 

Fanal Forest Madeira Tour

Alternatively, if you don’t have your own transportation, you can book an organized tour. With an informative local guide, explore the entire northwest side of Madeira, including a visit to the magical Fanal Forest. 

Where to Stay

As it lies only an hour’s drive away, most people visit Fanal Forest from Funchal, the island’s vibrant capital city. Funchal has a variety of accommodations, from charming boutique hotels and guesthouses to luxurious resorts with ocean views.

Our favorite hotels in Funchal 😴

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Quinta Da Penha De Franca

Funchal

Atlântico Azul

Funchal

Hotel Alto Lido

Funchal

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Alternatively, Porto Moniz is also a perfect spot to base yourself. It’s a lot quieter than Funchal, but it still has plenty of great hotels and restaurants. It’s also located close to many of the other top things to see on the final days of your Madeira itinerary.

Our favorite hotels in Porto Moniz 😴

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Aqua Natura Bay

Porto Moniz

The Jolie Apartments

Porto Moniz

Paradise Ocean View

Porto Moniz

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Best Time to Visit the Fanal Forest in Madeira 

The best time to visit Fanal Forest in Madeira is early in the morning, ideally around sunrise. As the forest lies at 1150 meters above sea level, it’s often shrouded in a mystical fog. Although the weather can be unpredictable, early mornings (8-9 AM) are known to increase your chances of experiencing this foggy magic, adding a surreal, otherworldly touch to the ancient trees.

However, even without the fog, the golden light of sunrise creates a breathtaking scenery when it touches the vibrant green moss. We didn’t have fog on the morning we visited, but it was still incredibly stunning! 

Note: It’s worth visiting the forest when the island’s weather is a bit gloomier. It’s often said that when it rains and temperatures drop, there’s a higher chance of fog, creating that mysterious atmosphere.