During our visit to Bosnia in May, we were constantly surprised by the variety: mountains that reminded us of the Dolomites, waterfalls that felt like Croatia, and cities where different cultures easily blended together. Some Bosnians even refer to it as the “Switzerland of the East”. While the scars of the 1990s war are still visible, what stood out most was how welcome and safe we felt everywhere we went. It’s one of Europe’s most underrated destinations, and this 10-day Bosnia itinerary helps you experience the very best of it.
Day 1: Arrive in Sarajevo
We flew from Amsterdam with a stop in Belgrade, landing in Sarajevo in the morning so we could get in a full day of exploring. Vienna is the other common connection if that works better for your route. (See all flight options)
Explore the Old Town
Sarajevo is genuinely unlike any other European city we’ve ever visited; it’s more of a mix of them! Ottoman mosques and Austro-Hungarian boulevards sit a few streets apart, and bullet holes from the 90s war are still visible on the walls of apartment blocks. We highly recommend doing the war tour to learn more about this period of Sarajevo’s history.
Read our complete Sarajevo travel guide
Spend the afternoon walking through Baščaršija, the cobblestone old town. Stop to watch craftsmen hammer copper by hand, duck into hidden courtyards, and settle down with a Bosnian (Turkish-style) coffee while the call to prayer echoes through the streets.
Where to Stay in Sarajevo
We stayed at Hotel Baškuća, a beautifully decorated, newly opened hotel just a one-minute walk up the hill from Kovači Street. It was our favorite hotel of the entire trip to Bosnia.
Day 2: Sarajevo to Lukomir
Morning in Sarajevo: Bike Tour and Bobsled
Before leaving the city, we joined this bike tour to the top of the mountain, where the old Olympic Trebević bobsled track is located. Controlling the sleds looked hard at first, but in no time, we were both zooming down the graffiti-covered track. Such a cool experience!
Tip: If you don’t want to bike, you can also take the cable car up (20 KM, around €10 return)
Lukomir Village
Leave by late morning to reach Lukomir, the highest and most remote village in the country, and one of the highlights of this Bosnia itinerary. The drive is about 2 hours, but the final 11 km is a gravel road, so take it slowly if you’re in a rental car.
We recommend to rent a car in Bosnia & Herzegovina through Sunny Cars with free cancellation and insurance included. Book your rental car here.
We honestly felt like we’d stepped back in time here: old stone houses, narrow windows, and local women still in traditional dress. The views from here over the mountains were out of this world.
Tip: We didn’t get time, but we wish we’d joined this hiking tour from the base of the mountain to Lukomir Village.
Where to Stay in Lukomir
Spend the night here if you can; it’s a very different experience once the day visitors leave. And the sunsets here are incredible! (See all homestays in Lukomir)
Day 3: Sutjeska National Park
Day 3 of this Bosnia itinerary is packed but it’s so worth it! You need to depart around 8 AM, and it’s a 2-hour drive to Sutjeska National Park. Before entering the park, stop at Restoran Tentorium for a classic Bosnian meal in Tjentište, since you’ll be hiking afterward.
There’s an entrance gate where you pay 10 KM (5 EUR) per person for the National Park. Then it’s a 1-hour drive up a gravel road, so a high-clearance vehicle is also necessary.
Once you get there, it honestly feels like being somewhere in the Dolomites. We visited in late May, and there were still patches of last snow on the hillsides.
Trnovačko Lake Hike
From the parking, you should first admire the stunning 360-degree views, and then you can start hiking. Trnovačko Lake is just across the border in Montenegro, famous for its heart shape and glacial-blue water. The hike to the lake takes around 5 hours return and isn’t technically difficult. Bring your swimwear; the lake is cold but swimmable in summer.
Tip: Visit the Skakavac Waterfall viewpoint on your way down. It’s only a 10-minute walk from the parking lot, and the views over the Perucica Rainforest are stunning!
Where to Stay in Sutjeska National Park
We stayed overnight in Tjentište, where you’ll find some well-priced accommodation options. We booked a room at Green Villas Tjentiste.
Day 4: Neretva River Rafting (Konjic)
On day 4 of your Bosnia itinerary, go river rafting in the afternoon and stay overnight in Konjic.
Tjentište Monument (Optional)
If you booked accommodation in Tjentište, the memorial complex (built to commemorate the Battle of Sutjeska) is about 1 km south of the village along the main road. The outdoor grounds are free; the small museum charges 5 KM per person.
Neretva River Rafting
Rafting was one of the highlights of our Bosnia itinerary, and we recommend that everyone give it a try. This four-hour rafting trip follows the river through rocky walls, past small waterfalls, with stops to swim along the way. The river runs at around 9–10°C year-round, so it’s freezing cold, but wetsuits are provided.
Waterproof bags are also supplied, but we also brought a waterproof case for our phone; the guides gave us several photo stops along the way.
Where to Stay in Konjic
After your day on the river, stay in a hotel in Konjic, which is a pretty riverside town and a great place to break up the journey between Sarajevo and Mostar.
Tip: Tito’s Bunker is just outside Konjic and worth adding if you have time. It was closed on our visit (a public holiday), but several people told us not to skip it.
Day 5–6: Mostar
Wake up early and drive around 1 hour from Konjic to Mostar – such a beautiful road! The landscape shifts as you drive, from lush greenery to drier Mediterranean scenery. There aren’t many official viewpoints, which is a shame, but this one is worth a stop.
We visited the famous Old Bridge in the late afternoon, when the crowds had thinned a little, and we could watch the professional divers jump into the water below.
Tip: The region around Mostar is famous for its wine. We loved VIA VINO, a women-owned little wine bar on Braće Fejića, where you can taste local wines.
Other Things to Do Nearby
- Blagaj and the Dervish House: 15-minute drive. The Dervish House sits at the base of a tall cliff where the Buna River springs directly from the rock.
- Bunski Kanal: Just off the M17, about 20 meters from the main road. This spot is where the Buna River meets the Neretva, spilling over a travertine ridge into a narrow channel.
- Počitelj Old Town: 30-minute drive. A fortified Ottoman village climbing a hillside above the Neretva River.
- Kravice Waterfalls: 1-hour drive. The waterfall is 25 meters tall but unusually wide, spreading across the cliff face in a horseshoe shape. You can swim in the pool at the base.
Where to Stay in Mostar
We stayed at Hotel Emporia just outside town, and loved it! There was also a winery on-site and a pool. Otherwise, stay in the Old Town to be closer to the main things to do.
Lunch Tip: Stop at Semešnica, a delicious local restaurant along the river with small waterfalls running alongside the terrace. This is the most beautiful restaurant we visited during our trip.😍
Jajce
Jajce is really beautiful, with charming buildings and a few really good restaurants. While you’re there, don’t miss Pliva Waterfall, Jajce Fortress and Mlinčići Watermills.
- Pliva Waterfall: You can see it for free from the top viewpoint on the road above, or pay around 10 KM (5 EUR) to access the lower platforms. We were unlucky with the timing: usually the water is turquoise, but it had rained heavily in the mountains, so it was brown. Still impressive, though!
Where to Stay in Jajce
We only spent one night here on our way to Una National Park, but it was a relaxing stop before continuing on this Bosnia itinerary.
Day 8: Pliva Lakes and Beach Vapore
If you’re visiting in summer, save Day 8 for the Pliva lakes (if not, go on to Una National Park a day early). From the watermills, you can walk the loop around the smaller lake all the way to Beach Vapore, a grassy open area with direct access to the water. You can also rent a boat here and get out onto the larger lake.
Day 9: Una National Park (Via Sanski Most)
Una National Park turned out to be one of our favorite surprises in Bosnia. Based around the town of Bihać, it’s filled with powerful waterfalls and emerald-green rivers. It reminded us a little of the famous Plitvice Lakes in Croatia, but with far fewer crowds.
- Dabarska Pećina Cave: A 20-meter-high cave entrance, carved into vertical rock with a river bursting out at its base. You can walk about 200 meters inside before hitting a clear underground lake. We couldn’t capture it properly in photos, so you really have to go see it yourself. Free entry!
Restaurant tip: We liked this spot for lunch.
Una National Park
From Sanski Most, the drive to the town of Bihac at Una National Park takes about 2 hours. One warning: Google Maps will likely route you down this road, which adds significant time to the journey. Ignore it and return to the main road.
With its emerald-green rivers and powerful waterfalls, Una National Park reminded us a little of Croatia’s famous Plitvice Lakes, especially around Štrbački Buk and Martin Brod waterfall, although on a much smaller scale. Note: Swimming isn’t allowed at the waterfalls themselves; there are other beautiful spots along the Una River where you can take a dip.
Entry fee: 12 KM per person (cash only). We’d recommend arriving before 10 AM or after 5PM for the quietest experience and best light.
Where to Stay in Una National Park
If you’re staying overnight, Bihać and the surrounding area are the best base for exploring. We stayed in this hotel just outside of town, and our friends stayed in this cute house. Both sit right along the river and are a lovely place to relax after a day of adventure.
Day 10: Fly out via Zagreb, Zadar or Sarajevo
You have two options for your return flight. Sarajevo is the obvious choice if you want to stay in Bosnia until the end, but from Bihać, Zagreb and Zadar in Croatia are only about 2.5 hours away.
We flew out of Zagreb because it had a direct flight back to Amsterdam, which saved us roughly two hours of driving compared to backtracking to Sarajevo.
Where to Stay in Bosnia & Herzegovina
- Sarajevo: We stayed at a very new but lovely hotel named Hotel Baškuća. Or try Karat Apartments and The Place 87.
- Lukomir: Etno Koliba, Bobića konak Lukomir, Etno-House
- Sutjeska NP: Green Villas Tjentiste, Camp Nomad Sutjeska, Apartmani Šarović
- Konjic: Herzegovina Lodges, Vila Sunce Village Resort, Apartman Nour
- Mostar: Hotel Emporia (we stayed here and it has a vineyard and pool), Hotel Almira, Hotel Kriva Cuprija
- Jajce: Cottages Relax, Malena Plivsko Jezero,
- Una National Park: Resort Una Park, Hotel Kostelski Buk, Hotel GOLD JET Bihać
Traveling to Bosnia & Herzegovina
From Amsterdam, we flew via Belgrade to Sarajevo. Direct flights are available from Brussels, Frankfurt, Vienna, and other major cities.
On the last day, we flew out from Zagreb instead of Sarajevo (2.5 hours north of Bihać and more direct flight options).
Getting Around
Bosnia is a fantastic road trip destination, and we think 10 days is the perfect amount of time to explore it at a relaxed pace. The country can still feel a little rough around the edges, but that’s exactly what makes it such a rewarding place to explore.
Tours: We did several tours with Meet Bosnia, which we absolutely loved. Having local guides added so much context to the country’s history and culture, especially in Sarajevo.
Rental Car: A car offers the most flexibility, but we’d recommend one with decent ground clearance, since some roads are unpaved. Google Maps occasionally sent us down gravel roads, so we found Waze more reliable. Driving in Bosnia isn’t difficult, although people do tend to overtake quite confidently. 😅
We recommend to rent a car in Bosnia & Herzegovina through Sunny Cars with free cancellation and insurance included. Book your rental car here.
Public Transport: We didn’t use it ourselves, but there are plenty of buses around the country, as well as a scenic train connecting Sarajevo and Mostar. Browse all transport options.
Practical Tips for Bosnia
- Sim and Signal: We bought an eSIM before leaving home and had solid coverage throughout the trip. The local BH Telecom SIM is cheaper but spottier outside cities. Download Google Maps offline before you arrive, as the signal isn’t always reliable in the national parks.
- Religion: Mostly a muslim country, but we felt they follow a very flexible way of their religion. Bring a scarf for covering up when entering a religious site.
- Language: The level of English was pretty good overall! We downloaded Google Translate offline, but it wasn’t needed most of the time.
- Safety: We felt very safe and welcome all over the country. You just need to be the person to start the conversation or a smile, and locals will be super open to chat.
Food in Bosnia & Herzegovina
Bosnian food is hearty, comforting, and so delicious! The cuisine isn’t particularly diverse, especially if you’re a vegetarian or vegan. We, as pescatarians who mostly eat vegetarian, sometimes struggled to find much variety beyond the usual options.
- Try spinach pie (zeljanica) and drinkable yogurt (Nick’s favorite snacks)
- Eat at small family-run restaurants. The hospitality in these places was incredible, whereas in bigger restaurants the service sometimes wasn’t so great.
- Supermarkets and restaurants are closed on Sundays, so stock up in advance if needed.
- Tap water is safe to drink in most places in Bosnia. You’ll also notice public water fountains throughout the country, where you can fill up your water bottle.
How Much Does Bosnia Cost?
Bosnia is one of the cheapest destinations in Europe, cheaper even than Albania. Sarajevo and Mostar sit at the higher end; everywhere else is noticeably more affordable.
Note: Bosnia uses the Bosnian Mark (KM). Euros are accepted in most places, but outside Sarajevo and Mostar, expect cash only. We used our Wise card where possible and kept KM on hand for smaller stops.
Best Time to Visit
May to June and September to early October are the best times to do this itinerary in Bosnia. We visited in late May and had around 22°C most days, though mountain weather can shift quickly, so you can have wind, rain, and sun all in one day.
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